PREVIEW - Bridge Rehab guides
DRAFT PREVIEW. Proposed Bridge Rehab layout: one main button and jump links in a full-width bar, whitepaper in the guides, tools moved up, FAQ moved lower.
Remove structural rivets with less vibration, less noise and no compressor.
Bridge and structural rehabilitation means taking out hot-driven rivets that were never meant to come out, often at height, over roads or water, and under time constraints. A rivet buster is usually the quickest way to knock out a rivet, but it's loud, needs a compressor, is punishing on the operator and can damage degraded steel. Where safety, access, noise or the condition of the structure matter, HMT's rivet drilling method gives crews another option: core drill rivets out with battery or electric drills, then ream to finished size where the new fastener or the condition of the steel calls for it. Many crews use both.
Watch: thousands of structural rivets removed during the refurbishment of a 150-year-old pier.
Rivet removal how-to guides
Tools to get you started
Rivet Removal Starter KitTypically used for 3/4", 7/8" and 1" rivets (11/16", 13/16" and 15/16" cutters)
V36 Cordless Magnet DrillHMT's lightest mag drill at 21.9 lb. Up to 49 holes per charge (11/16", 9.0Ah)
OverReach SystemPosition your magnet drill up to 12" from the obstruction
Extra Long HoleCutter & Reamer KitFor thicker, multi-layer connections, plus reamers where needed
HoleCutter, Broach Cutter & Reamer KitHand-held and mag drill cutters, plus reamers, in 3 sizes
Shop the full rivet removal range ↓
Confined space? Multiple ways to access the rivet
Can't get a magnet drill onto the rivet? Use OverReach.
Rivet heads, stiffener plates and flanges often stop a magnet drill sitting where the hole needs to go. The HMT OverReach System is a magnetic base that holds your magnet drill away from the obstruction. Clamp it to clean steel nearby, position the drill up to 12" away and swivel through 360° to reach over, around and beyond it.
110 Volt. Supplied in a STAKIT Base 200 case. Needs a minimum 3/8" thick base material, clean, flat, paint and rust free.
Can't fit a magnet drill in the space? Use a Versadrive TCT HoleCutter.
Where there's no room for a magnet drill, core drill the rivet out with a hand-held drill. Versadrive TCT HoleCutters fit a standard 1/2" drill chuck, with premium tungsten carbide teeth for drilling heavy steel in remote locations, including bridge strengthening work.
Rotary rated: use with a rotary drill, not an impact tool. Fits a magnet drill with the Versadrive Weldon shank adapter.
Proven with Bridge Contractors, Departments of Transportation and Class 1 Railroads
"They removed & replaced with HS bolts 48 total rivets over several work days in short windows from hung scaffolding underneath the bridge. We replaced 2 stringers in a bridge slightly over 100 years old."Jason C. Hale, Engineer Bridge Inspection, BNSF Railway
"Made short work of the rivet removal process, we used battery drills therefore eliminating the need for a compressor. Much more efficient, quieter & easier on the body."David Kabetske, Foreman, BNSF Railway
Figures from our hand-arm vibration comparison.
Rivet removal FAQ 12 common questions
Is drilling faster than a rivet buster?
Usually not. A skilled crew with a rivet buster will normally remove a rivet more quickly. Drilling is the better choice when safety is the priority, when there isn't room to handle a rivet buster safely or easily, when noise is restricted (night work or residential areas), or when you need to avoid damaging corroded or degraded steel.
Many crews run both: bust where it works and drill where it doesn't. Some partly drill a rivet to weaken it, then punch or bust it out.
Why HMT rather than any magnet drill and carbide cutter?
Other brands make magnet drills and carbide cutters. What HMT adds is more ways to reach the rivet: hand-held TCT HoleCutters with 2" and 4" depth of cut, the only carbide holecutters this deep that work with extension arbors (5" and 12"); OverReach, to position your magnet drill up to 12" from an obstruction; a Weldon shank adapter so the same HoleCutter runs in a magnet drill; impact-rated reamers; and an SDS+ adapter.
What size cutter do I need?
11/16" for 3/4" rivets, 13/16" for 7/8" rivets and 15/16" for 1" rivets. The final hole size depends on the new fastener and your project spec.
How do I drill out a rivet?
- Take the pilot out of the HoleCutter and drill a locating hole in the rivet head with the 1/4" pilot bit or a TurboTip.
- Refit the pilot and start the cut with gentle feed pressure until it's established.
- Knock the head off with a cold chisel.
- Drill the body to about 80% depth, or until you feel the rivet move.
- Punch it out.
- Ream to finished size if required.
What if the rivet body isn't lined up with the head?
Hot rivets often move after installation, so the body may not line up with the head. That can make them hard, sometimes impossible, to bust out, but you can still core drill through the center with a HoleCutter in 2" or 4" depth of cut.
Do I need to ream every hole?
No. It depends on the fastener and the condition of the structure. Ream if corrosion debris is left in the hole, the plies are out of line, or the new fastener is larger than the old rivet.
Follow your project spec: many DOT specs call for finished holes 1/16" over the fastener, and reaming oversize holes in the field may need the engineer's approval. Versadrive reamers run in impact wrenches (1/2" or 3/4" drive adapters), drills and magnet drills.
Pilot drill or solid pilot pin?
Use the pilot drill or TurboTip for the locating hole, then the solid pin for the main cut. The solid pin is less likely to break if the HoleCutter snags.
How deep can I cut, and how far can I reach?
HoleCutters come in 2" and 4" depth of cut, and 5" and 12" extension arbors add reach into corners and confined spaces. If the magnet drill can't sit close enough to the rivet, OverReach lets you position it up to 12" from the obstruction.
Hand-held drill or magnet drill?
A hand-held drill with a HoleCutter needs no clamping or tack-welded plates, and it fits where a magnet drill base won't. A magnet drill gives a stable platform for Carbidemax cutters.
What drills will they fit?
The 7/16" hex shank fits standard chucks, including cordless drills. An SDS+ adapter lets them run in SDS+ drills on rotary setting only, and the Weldon shank adapter lets them run in a magnet drill.
Do I need cutting fluid?
Speedlube helps cooling and tool life where you're allowed to use it. Where paint adhesion or environmental rules mean drilling dry, the cutters still work, but expect shorter tool life.
How many rivets will a cutter do?
Typically 10 to 100+, depending on rivet condition, setup and feed pressure.
Planning a rehabilitation project?
Send us the structure type, rivet sizes and access conditions. We'll recommend the tooling and kit quantities for the job.